Viking Graffiti in Hagia Sophia – Varangian Guard ‘Halvdan’

Tucked along the upper gallery’s marble bannister is one of Hagia Sophia’s most unexpected details: Viking graffiti attributed to the Varangian Guard. The clearest line reads, “Halvdan was here.”

Where to Find It (Upper Gallery)

• Reach the upper gallery via the current tourist entrance and ramp. Once at the southwest corner (near the Marble Door), follow the railing that overlooks the nave.

• Look for a band of incised runic scratches on the marble. Most are faint; one clearer line is the famed “Halvdan” inscription.

  Access note: As of 2025, visitors enter the upper gallery on a paid ticket. On Fridays the tourist area reopens to visitors after early afternoon. Always follow onsite signs and staff directions.

Who Were the Varangians?

• The Varangian Guard served as elite mercenaries protecting Byzantine emperors (from the 10th century onward, with roots back into the 9th).
• Many guards were Norsemen (Vikings) who left marks of their passage across the empire. Hagia Sophia’s inscription is a rare surviving trace of that presence.

Reading the Stone

• The marble balustrade shows multiple illegible runic lines; one legible carve spells out the name Halvdan.
• Scholars debate exact dating, but the graffiti is broadly placed in the 9th–11th centuries.

Photographing the Graffiti (Respectfully)

• Use natural light; avoid flash and never lean equipment over the nave. A smartphone wide camera is enough if you get close and steady your elbows.

• Try raking light (late afternoon) to raise contrast on shallow cuts. If it’s busy, take a quick photo and step aside so others can look.

  Gear	Recommended?	Why
  Smartphone wide	✅	Discreet, stabilized, good enough
  24–35mm prime	✅	Natural perspective
  Tripod	❌	Restricted; blocks the lane
  Flash	❌	Distracting; not allowed during prayer

Link It to the Space Around You

• From the rail, glance across to the nave to feel the vast scale the Varangians once saw.
• Nearby highlights: the Marble Door to the Synod chamber, and further along the gallery, the Deësis mosaic and the Komnenos and Empress Zoe panels.

Image Highlights

Bottom Line

One scratched line on marble opens a window onto a global story — Vikings in imperial Constantinople, guarding the Byzantine throne and leaving a name behind: Halvdan.